Straight Bar  

Q:  Ok fellows, tried a straight bar for the first time last week and need some help getting the lf down at least to where its not bring the rain.
Id love to have the side bite and forward bite from the straight bar but the car isn’t what id call very drivable in traffic.

Set up
lf- 500 75-3
rf- 350 76
lr-300 96-2
rr-250 95
left% 52.6
rear% 55
180# wedge
rearend centered 17 3/4" straight bar 8 1/2"up from frame to bottom of bracket and 3rd notch up on pinion
set up with no driver.

We won the heat but started up front.
After heat we put the j-bar on because I feared the track would take rubber and make car even more undriveable. It did rubber up!
J-bar seemed to make the car loose in the middle (I spun on lap 4 while in 5th *grin*)
was able to make it back to 4th by end of feature and had the fastest car but as it always does the damn thing started lifting higher and higher the longer we ran
any help on getting this thing down while staying with the straight bar?

A: Less bite for starters, you need to be right under a 100lbs with straight bar. Also did you ever get you one of the limiters? This should help control the LR indexing so much.

Man that’s alot of LR spring, but I see what your doing with it. If you want to keep the bite get rid of some of the spring.

Also where do you have your lead? Lowering it and moving some fwd will help

A: No bizkit I haven’t gotten one of those limiters yet, I figured the under sling bar would stop it, and it does, but its beating the bar out of the car now. I really need to get one of those!
booz... grt 3/8 very slick one lane no clay and no banking track
I think ill try dropping the bite to under a 100# and see what this does.

A: The biggest problem with an under slung is that frame rail in question! If it hits, It picks up on the LR contact patch, removing it from the track surface when Its slammed against the axel tube, resulting in lost forward bite and a real ugly frame rail.